February,
2001.
 The
spanish journalists had written that this ascent might compare
with launching of sputnik only, because it had had the same
huge interest all around in Spain.
They started 13, February. They
are Alexander Klenov (Yekaterinburg), Anatoli Moshnikov and
Nikolai Totmianin (both from Sant-Petersburg) and Viktor Volodin
(Moscow).
The first five ropes they worked
for four days. It was very difficult especially in the beginning
of the route, there was very hanging rock (for each 10 metres
is 5 meters of hanging ) and a lot of huge cornices, the wall
is destroyed hard and for his first meters to up Anatoliy
Moshnikov fell down with stone, he could hardly step because
of strong pain in leg and his right hand was broken, but in
spite of this accident he desided to go on the ascent with
the rest.
The constant tention accompained
their during all their way up, as Alexander Klenov told, sometimes
he had to go up for half of length of rope in search any split
to make belay, it was very difficult to realise this possibility
of falling for 15-30 meters any time.
The last night before the final
push they hadn't had any sleep because they were busy with
repairing of portalege One of horizontal bar suddenly broke
and that night they had to forget about rest. The whole ascent
took 11 days (with 5 nights spended in portaledge), they were
on the summit 23 Februrary, it's funny because in Russia this
day is celebrated much as the day of defender of fatherland
(it called before The Day Of Soviet Army and two participants
of this team Klenov and Volodin are the representatives of
Sport Club of Army).
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